From the onset, we expected — and found — true grandeur during our seven-day stay earlier this month in Copenhagen. The public spaces, from the broad squares to parks, epitomized all that can be great in an urban environment with origins more than a few centuries old.
Still a monarchy, there were castles to explore in the city and beyond. We appreciated the number and caliber of the monuments that graced many locations. And, we learned that Denmark in early May can be cool, especially after dark (which was past the 9 pm hour, or 2100 in European/military time); yet we were impressed by the late-spring floral.
Wonder what’s on this guy’s mind? Well I googled “Adam Oehlenschläger” and learned this Copenhagen native was a poet and playwright who “introduced romanticism into Danish literature.” His statue commands a strong presence in front of the Royal Theater. The Marble Church is just as spectacular inside. The rococo architecture of this Evangelical Lutheran church is truly stunning. From the rooftop of our hotel, we viewed many tall and elaborate church spires to the west.Not sure what kind of instrument this man was playing in a plaza north of our hotel, but the sounds were soothing. Like many from Copenhagen, his mode of transportation was a bicycle. As referenced in the Narrative post on May 16, we encountered the Copenhagen Marathon after exiting the Metro to reach street level. As noted here, we had to dodge marathon runners and scores of parked bicycles to cross the thoroughfare.This guy perched on the horse was a king back in the day. This formidable monument is in Amalienborg Castle, where the changing of the guard takes place every day at noon. I took in the event one day and was admonished by a guard in full dress uniform for sitting on the steps leading to a building. I readily complied with his command. Decisions. Decisions. Even with digital technology, I found it useful to have a print map when we headed off on a day trip. Here, we’re in the Copenhagen Central Station.Just outside Central Station, we noticed this multi-towered apartment development, testimony to the fact that even a great historic urban center like Copenhagen needs to adapt to modern demands for housing. Kronborg Castle, the fictional site for Hamlet, is way beyond cool. Located in the town of Helsigner, a 55-minute train ride north of Copenhagen, the castle also boasts a formidable collection of art and tapestries. We learned the author of the legendary tragic play never set foot in Denmark. It took me 145 (or was it 146?) steps to reach the top of one of the Kronborg Castle towers. The result was this awesome view of the castle compound, which recently was used as a military barracks, and the surrounding harbor.Now, that’s one bad-ass Viking. This sculpture was at the entrance to the Kronborg Castle dungeon. He would be the last guy you would want to cross — in a dungeon or above ground. Yes, this is the Kronborg Castle dungeon. And, yes, it’s scary. And, no, I did not want to visit again any time soon. Now, I can say I’ve experienced the ultimate in creepy. The lilacs were in bloom and just spectacular in many parts of greater Copenhagen during our visit. So were tulips. This lilac bush was just steps from the Little Mermaid sculpture. We also enjoyed viewing beds of tulips in full bloom.Okay, the last castle. I promise. This is Rosenborg Castle, built in 1606-34 by Christian IV as “a pleasure palace.” It’s located in the Kogens Have, otherwise known as the King’s Garden, and is visible in many parts of Copenhagen.Fans from one of the Danish national soccer (I mean football) teams held a loud and spirited pedestrian parade down a main street in the afternoon on game day. Not sure which team won, but many fans, especially those carrying four-packs of Tuborg or Carlsberg beer, certainly had a good time before the game.Seemingly, every major city in Europe has a Central Station. This is the one in Malmo, Sweden, which we visited one afternoon following a short train ride from — you guessed it — the Copenhagen Central Station. We learned Malmo is the third largest metro area in Sweden, and this year it was the site of the famous Euro Vision music competition.As a self-proclaimed transit guy, I was intrigued by this “double articulated bus” in Malmo. Assuredly, this bus can only operate on very, very wide streets by an operator who is very, very well trained.The modern and the traditional in Malmo. On a stroll along the quiet riverfront, I was enthralled by the modern art work in the foreground and the castle-like building across the river. We found that spritzers are quite popular in Copenhagen. Here, Susan enjoys one during our visit on a sunny, mild afternoon to the Tivoli Gardens.Although we did not take in a ride on one of the many modern amusement rides at Tivoli Gardens, we were captivated by the dramatic range of architecture across the park, which has been around since 1843!One surprise during the Tivoli Garden visit: A series of music performances by teenaged school kids. The caliber and scope of the songs delivered varied greatly, but were impressed by how well the event was organized. The band above — and I’m not kidding — performed AC/DC’s “Highway to Hell.” The entrance to our wonderful home base, the Hotel SKT Annae. A fitting conclusion to this post on our visit to Copenhagen. The Hotel — which is modern, well-designed, and staffed by a team of dedicated hospitality professionals — was located on a quiet street a short distance from the raucous Nyhavn canal and a few minute’s walk to the waterfront. Highly recommended.
Would you believe that the formidable structure in the background is a department store? Much of Copenhagen remains a visual delight for those who can appreciate historic architecture, even on a cloudy afternoon.
How often have you arrived at a new destination, somewhat jet lagged after flying for nine or so hours, only to find a phalanx of marathon runners serving as a barrier between you and much needed sleep at your hotel?
Well, that’s what happened to Susan and I earlier this month upon arrival in Copenhagen, the bustling capital of Denmark and a city established more than 800 years ago. After riding the ultra-modern, inexpensive, and highly efficient Metro to the Kogens Nytorv station, we encountered dozens of people cheering on runners as they made their way along the south end of the historic cobblestone square.
What to do?
Eventually, we scurried across the thoroughfare, dragged our suitcases through the square, and checked into the way-cool boutique SKT Annea Hotel, our home base for the next seven nights. What follows is a recap of some key activities and observations during our time exploring greater Copenhagen on foot and by rail.
A Truly World Class City: Prior to our visit, I learned that Copenhagen was one of the priciest cities in Europe. We found this to be somewhat true, but then, there was tremendous value in virtually all of our activities — from taking in an afternoon at the historic Tivoli Gardens, to a scrumptious meal at a French bistro, to strolling the boulevards and streets lined with very well-preserved and maintained classic buildings. Yes, a Tuborg Classic draft beer at a hotel bar could cost more than 50 kroner (around 8 US dollars), but it would be served in a stemmed glass by a server dressed in black and white attire in a venue that reflected true culture and style. Just about every street revealed another amazing row of low-rise historic buildings, many with small shops selling everything from jewelry and clothing to antique toys. Parks were places of calm and serenity and could have served as the backdrop for an Impressionist painting; and, most parks contained one or more remarkable bronze statue. In short, our time in Copenhagen may have cost a little more than other cities, but the experience was worth every kroner.
Perhaps the Most “European” City on the Continent: On previous visits to European cities, we encountered people and visited places that clearly met the criteria for being, well, “European.” I’m referring to men and women who wear scarves as an accompaniment to well-tailored attire, enjoy the simple act of strolling along a boulevard, and frequently engage in spirited conversation, often punctuated with laughter. We observed this everywhere in Copenhagen, especially when walking along Nyhavn, the canal lined with colorful rowhouses that now contain restaurants with seating that spills out onto the lane. During our visit in early May, the weather was at times cool; that didn’t stop diners from enjoying meals outside, especially since restaurants provided heat lamps and blankets. While out on foot, fellow pedestrians obeyed red light signals at crosswalks, and cyclists — and there were many! — stayed in their lanes. In summary, one knows that he or she is, indeed, in Europe when visiting Copenhagen.
Historic and Modern Melded Into One: This coastal metropolis is relatively flat, making it easy to navigate on foot or bicycle and appreciate the streetscape and urban design. Unlike in many U.S. cities (including my home city of Chicago), old structures in Copenhagen more than likely will get restored rather than razed, thereby preserving the city’s history and character. This was especially true in the city center neighborhoods like Indre By and Frederiksstaden, where some apartment buildings were converted to condos, the facades preserved and restored. But the city is not resting on its architectural and historical laurels. This is evidenced by the 20-year-old ultra modern Copenhagen Opera House, which commands a dominant place along the waterfront.
Yes, Copenhagen Draws a Crowd: Early during our visit, we the took hop-on, off-bus on a route that passed by many of the city’s most renowned destinations, like the Little Mermaid statue and Tivoli Gardens. While there were a sizeable number of other visitors and locals about, we enjoyed a relatively uncrowded adventure. By the weekend, we observed the double-decker red tour bus was packed and one could ascertain the popular bronze statue was visited by hoards of people seeking photos. The same could be noted for the restaurants in Nyhavn, where there was a more boisterous atmosphere than earlier in the week, yet one that was absent of any concern for our safety. From this perspective, yes people come to Copenhagen to take in the charm, eat, drink, and enjoy themselves. But not once did we feel afraid or threatened.
Below are a few images from our wonderful trip. Watch for the “travelogue” follow up post with more pictures.
The Copenhagen Opera House, located across the channel from where we stayed, is an example of how to meld the modern into an historic urban environment. One doesn’t have to stray too far to find water when touring Copenhagen. Pleasure craft and live-aboard boats share this channel. Diners at the excellent French bistro we visited along the north end of the Kogens Nytorv square. Our excellent dinner was embellished by this view.Didn’t get a shot of Little Mermaid while taking the hop on/hop off bus tour as I found this statue and monument to be a bit more interesting — and much less in demand for photo ops.Evening looking west along Sankt Annæ Place, a tranquil thoroughfare that includes a midway where people relax, drink, talk, smoke, and play bocce ball.
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